How to Fix 2021 F150 No Start After BCM Replacement?

Question: 

I purchased a flood damaged 2021 F150 with a bricked Body control module that could not be cloned. So far I've cleaned all Terminals, harnesses, replaced the body control module, Power control module, Passenger door control module, and Body control module C (fuse holder). After replacing those I programmed the 2 keys (original to the truck) to the new BCM using the prompts on the dashboard (without using Forscan) after that I configured all the modules to as built with Forscan.

I was able to get most functions of the truck to work but there is still no crank, no start. Is there something else I need to do to install the BCM? and can I do that with Forscan?

Solution:

PAT'S programming, you need Ford FDRS to do this.

You can skip the dealer and find a local auto locksmith with an Autel MaxiIM IM608 key programmer or similar. I replaced my BCM recently on 2019 F150. Used Forscan to program factory as-built data and an Autel IM608 to do the keys. Also, Ford IDS is for older vehicles (pre 2015). You would need Ford J2534 adapter (VXDIAG, VCM etc), FDRS with a dealer license to do PATS programming. There are people sell 1 day, 1 week and 1 year licence to FDRS with PATS access.

So just to be clear:

1) Erase all keys
2) Program 2 new key/fob combo with remote start

Just follow the programming it will ask for each key to be inserted and will complete after both keys have been successfully programmed.

 

Read also:

 

Program Ford Mustang 2021 Proxmity with VXDIAG J2534 FDRS

Buick Bucking Problem Solved by VXDIAG VCX NANO GM

It's a 2003 Buick Century 3.1L bucking jumping when accelerating. No fault code.  This problem haunted me for half year. Not a single engine/tranny code in the entire process including history or pending code. After throwing tons of parts at it, I finally fixed it.

Tools:

1. a PC-simulated GM Tech2 scanner (VXDiag VCX NANO GM from vxdiagshop.com) which has live data, misfire data, 2-way programming or sensor controls.
2. Fuel pressure gauge.

Observations:

1. Car jump/buck/lunge forward while accelerating or climbing a hill. Worst at 2-3 gear.
2. It appears to be engine problem, not transmission problem, because engine RPM drops from >2000rpm to <1000rpm like a "pause". The engine quickly picks up RPM and the car lunge forward.
3. Misfire data show occasional misfire in random cylinder, but not bad enough to set any code. During the "pause" there is no massive misfire.
4. Fuel pressure gauge shows normal ~50psi idle or under load — normal fuel system
5. MAP starts at 30kpa idle. Opened throttle to increase and maintain rpm to 2800, MAP increase to 45kpa and quickly restores to 28kpa — good vacuum, no CAT restriction
6. STFT and LTFT are within 5%

Parts thrown at it (without improvement):

1. Cleaned throttle, IAC, EGR. Not dirty at all. Tech2 tool is able to control the valve to expected position.
2. Fuel: replaced pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator, all fuel injectors (expensive!)
3. Ignition: replaced spark plugs, wire, coil, ICM
4. Sensors: replaced TPS, IAC, MAF, MAP, 3x Crankshaft Position Sensor (facing firewall) Some articles call it 7x CPS but Tech2 tool shows 3x CPS.

The Culprit:

1. The wiring harness that connects 3x CPS to the ICM

It is a 2-wire cable, purple and yellow, with male plugs on both ends. After 18 years and 250000 miles, this cable deteriorated due to proximity to exhaust manifold. Outer sleeve disintegrated. A plastic retainer which plugs to a hole near thermostat is broken. The cable is now dangling near crossover exhaust pipe, and partially melted. From google search I learned the 3x CPS is "critical" and will halt ignition without setting any code. (The other 24x CPS behind harmonic balancer is non-critical)

The Replacement part:

1. GM 15301408 or Dorman 645-514

I bought the Dorman. Dorman lists it as a "Knock sensor harness" but it is actually 3x CPS. It's a exact fit with the 2 plastic retainers (hoops) in the middle. I added a fiberglass sleeve around it for extra protection. The bucking problem is totally gone.

Many people had bucking problem without reaching a solution. I hope my story will help someone.

VXDIAG Forscan Program Ford Expedition Key Fob

Ford Expedition 2nd Generation key fob programming experience shared by one of our customers:

My wife purchased (2) keys online for our 2005 Expedition. She just went in today and tried to get them cut and programmed at the local dealer. We only have 1 original key. Well they cut the key but said they were unable to program the keys because they each were missing the engine or ignition chip.

She said the door can lock and the tailgate opens with the newly programmed keys but it will not start the truck because these "chips" are missing. Unless there is a way to fix them.

Possible to buy the missing chips and have them programmed?

Yes,  This may be an option for you if you can find the chips. The Strattec SA 80bit keys are only about $30 a pair.

Looked on eBay and find proper chips. Buy the chips, inserted into the holes and you are able to program the keys.

Look up your Ford key part number at https://aftermarket.strattec.com/ and finding a seller (ebay, etc) to get the OEM Ford keys seems to work out well.

My first encounter with Ford PATS keys resulted in me refusing to pay the Ford stealer $175 just to program a pair of customer supplied keys or $140 each if they supplied the keys.
I purchased a pair of Stratec keys for $30, a VXDiag VCX Nano Ford IDS OBD2 interface for $115 and used the free Forscan software to program the keys into my 2nd gen Expedition, no problems. This saved a lot over going to the stealer and now I have the tools to diagnose any issues that may pop up with the truck. A local locksmith cut my 2 keys for $1.50 each.